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All Categories > Finishing Metal & Fabric > Randolph > Rand-O-Plate Epoxy Primer > Item # B6433-QT  
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Item # B6433-QT, Rand-O-Plate Epoxy Primer

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Is a component primer for metal, dark green in color, an excellent undercoat for dark range of colors. (Same formulation as Epibond). Use 2 to 1 parts mixing liquid EP 430.

Specifications  · Epoxy Information



1 quart

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Epoxy Information

In recent years the term "epoxy" has become a household word. "Epoxy" is a general termfor a vast number of specialized resin/hardener system, the same as "aluminum" is ageneral term for a whole family of specialized metal alloys. Just as the aluminum in the sparof a high performance aircraft is vastly different from the "aluminum" pots and pans in yourkitchen, the "epoxy" in your aircraft is vastly different from the hardware store variety. Epoxyis the adhesive matrix that keeps the plies of load-carrying glass cloth together. Epoxy aloneis weak and heavy. It is important to use it properly so that the full benefits of its adhesivecapability are obtained without unnecessary weight. An "epoxy system" is made up of aresin and a hardener tailored to produce a variety of physical and working properties. Themixing of resin with its hardener causes a chemical reaction called curing, which changesthe two liquids into a solid. Different epoxy systems produce a wide variety of solids rangingfrom extremely hard to very flexible. Epoxy systems also vary greatly in their workingproperties, some are very thick, slow pouring liquids and others are like water. Some epoxysystems allow hours of working time and others harden almost as fast as they are mixed. Asingle type of resin is sometimes used with a variety of hardeners to obtain a number ofdifferent characteristics. In short, there is no universal epoxy system, each has its ownspecific purpose and while it may be the best for one application, it could be the worstpossible in another use. The working and strength characteristics of an epoxy system aredependent on the resin, the hardener and on the amount of each in a given mixture. Epoxysystems are engineered for a specific ratio of resin and hardener. It is quite important thatthe proper mixture be obtained. An accurate balance or ratio pump must be used toaccomplish this. Epoxy resin and hardener are mixed in small batches, usually 6 ounces orless, even in the largest layup. The reason for small batches is that, in large batches, as thehardening reaction progresses, heat is generated which speeds the reaction, which causeseven more heat, which ends up in a fast reaction called an exotherm. An exotherm willcause the cup of epoxy to get hot and begin to thicken rapidly. If this occurs, throw it awayand mix a new batch. The small volume batch avoids the exotherm. For a large layup, youwill mix many small batches rather than a few large ones. With this method you can spendmany hours on a large layup using epoxy that has a working life of only a few minutes. If theepoxy is spread thin as in a layup, it will remain only a few degrees above room temperature.However, in a thick buildup or cup, the low surface area to mass ratio will cause theepoxy to retain its heat, increasing its temperature. This results in a faster cure causingmore heat. This unstable reaction is called an exotherm. Exotherm temperatures can easilyexceed the maximum allowable for foam (200°) and damage the foam-to-glass bond.Unwaxed paper cups are used for mixing and measuring resin and hardener. DO NOT usewaxed cups; the wax will contaminate your epoxy. Mixing is done by stirring with a stick,being careful not to spill any. If you spill part of an unmixed cup, the ratio of resin andhardener may be inaccurate and it should not be used. Mix each cup for a least one minute.You should spend 80% of your mixing time stirring the cup and 20% scraping the sides toassure complete mixing. Do not mix with a brush. The bristles can soak up the hardener,changing the ratio. Use a tongue depressor or wood stick. The working temperature has asubstantial effect on the pot life and cure time. Very hot conditions will cause the cure tospeed up. In cold working conditions the cure will be delayed and if it is cold enough, epoxymay not cure at all. Working temperatures must be between 70° and 100°. A range of 75°to 85° is best. Cold epoxy results in increased time required to do a layup, since it takeslonger to "wet" and to squeegee the cloth. A layup at 70° F may take almost twice the timeas at 80° F. On most layups (except for joining foam cores) it is best to have 75° to 85° Froom temperature and 90° to 100° F epoxy. Resin and hardener can be kept warmer thanroom temperature by keeping it in a cabinet with a small light bulb on. DO NOT store yourresin or hardener on a cold floor if you plan to use it within the next several hours. If you letyour shop get cold between working periods, keep some resin and hardener in the warmestplace of your house for use on the next layup. Sometimes epoxy hardener will have solidsform in the bottom of the bottle. If this happens do not use the hardener. All of the hardenermust be liquid before it is used. To use this hardener it is necessary to heat it up and stir orshake it slightly. To do this heat some water on your kitchen stove in a large pan with thehardener in the pan of water. Move the bottle around to be certain not to melt the plasticcontainer. When the water has just started to boil pull the hardener out and slosh it around.This should dissolve all of the sediment in the bottom. If not put it back in the water for a fewminutes and then shake it again. Save your mixing cups, as they can be used as a qualitycheck of your epoxy. After a day or two take a sharp knife point or scribe and scratch at theface of the epoxy in the cured cup. If the epoxy cured properly the scribe will make a whitescratch mark. If the epoxy has not cured, the scribe will make a dull ridge, indicating a softsurface. If this occurs the epoxy is not cured, either due to inadequate time or temperatures,or bad mixing or bad epoxy. Temperature is very important in working with epoxy. If you areworking in a garage in the winter, the room must be heated up well in advance of the startof your layup. The foam blocks are a very good insulator and so it can take as long as fourhours for the foam to warm completely to room temperature. Start heating your work areaand all materials well in advance of starting your layup.

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